Interest in Azerbaijan’s silk kelaghayis is growing year by year.

                                                                                                                                  





Silk production has a very long history in Azerbaijan, particularly in Shaki. For centuries, Shaki has been a region where the traditions of silk production were preserved. Silk played a unique role in the life and daily activities of Shaki's people throughout history. In the Middle Ages, Shaki was considered not only one of the largest silk producers in Azerbaijan but also one of the major weaving centers in the Near and Middle East. This ancient region became famous worldwide for its silk. The colorful scarves (kelaghayi) and delicate fabrics made by Shaki artisans from raw silk were exported to many countries.
Ancient silk traditions are preserved in Shaki
The ancient traditions of silk production in Shaki are still preserved and further developed today. “Azeripek” LLC (formerly “Shaki-Silk” JSC), operating in this city, is considered one of the largest industrial enterprises in Azerbaijan. Thanks to the direct attention and care of President Ilham Aliyev, in recent years, essential measures have been implemented to develop sericulture and create a modern silk infrastructure, significantly boosting the activities of “Azeripek” LLC. Currently, the enterprise has six production areas – cocoon processing, twisting, weaving, dyeing and decorating, as well as sorting and carpet workshops, employing a total of 314 workers.
AZERTAC reports that the regional correspondent visited the dyeing and decorating workshop of “Azeripek” LLC and observed the production process. Traditional Azerbaijani silk scarves (kelaghayi) for women are produced here.
Shaki kelaghayi is always in high demand
Production manager Qudrat Guliyev has been working at the enterprise for 40 years. According to him, kelaghayi used to be produced in small workshops under the city’s Silk Factory. Considering the high demand for kelaghayi, a separate production unit – the kelaghayi workshop – was established in 2002, and the small workshops in the city were closed. Qudrat Guliyev has been leading this sector since that time.
Shaki has a very long history of kelaghayi making. This craft has been passed down from generation to generation. Shaki kelaghayi has always been in high demand. Considered a symbol of modesty, honor, and femininity for Azerbaijani women, the kelaghayi still maintains its value today.
Qudrat Guliyev noted that in earlier times, kelaghayi was only boiled and bleached, without patterns or dyes, for export. At that time, the workshop produced 20-30 thousand plain kelaghayi per month. After establishing the dyeing and decorating workshop, patterned and colored silk kelaghayi production began.
The kelaghayi production process involves several stages
Currently, the entire kelaghayi production process is carried out within the enterprise and consists of several stages. Silk threads produced at the twisting workshop are sent to the weaving workshop. High-quality thin silk fabric woven on modern looms is cut to the required sizes for kelaghayi and sent to the dyeing and decorating workshop. The fabric is first boiled in hot water with soda to remove adhesives and other impurities, then lightly rinsed in cold water and dried. After that, the patterning stage begins.
Currently, 18 workers are employed in the dyeing and decorating workshop, earning a monthly salary of 300-500 AZN. Most of them have been working in this production for many years and are devoted to their profession.
The dyeing and decorating workers are masters of their craft
Technologist Irada Hamidova has also been working at the enterprise for 40 years, currently supervising technological processes. Gunes Mammadova has been working in the patterning workshop for 5 years, and Nigar Amikishiyeva for 17 years. Both are masters of their profession, decorating 20-25 kelaghayi per day. The edges (yelani) and centers (khoncha) of the kelaghayi are decorated with geometric and floral patterns using block printing. In total, 100-150 kelaghayi are patterned daily using wooden and metal molds. When making molds, priority is given to national ornaments, especially the buta shape, crowns, flowers, and strawberry patterns.
After patterning, the kelaghayi is sent to the dyeing workshop. According to dyer Natiq Mammadov, natural dyes are mainly used, with limited use of chemical dyes.
Kelaghayi produced by “Azeripek” LLC is exported to several countries
Currently, the dyeing and decorating workshop produces 2-2.5 thousand patterned kelaghayi per month on order, along with 30 thousand boiled kelaghayi. The scarves, silk shawls, and various head coverings produced are exported to Russia, Iran, and the United Arab Emirates, and are also sold in the enterprise's store. A patterned 150x150 cm kelaghayi costs 49-60 AZN.
Azerbaijani kelaghayi art is internationally recognized
According to production manager Qudrat Guliyev, thanks to the efforts of Azerbaijan’s First Vice-President, President of the Heydar Aliyev Foundation, and UNESCO and ISESCO goodwill ambassador Mehriban Aliyeva, Azerbaijani kelaghayi was included in UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in November 2014, which has further increased interest in kelaghayi. On behalf of the enterprise’s staff, Guliyev expressed gratitude to President Ilham Aliyev and First Vice-President Mehriban Aliyeva for their attention and care in preserving and promoting the country’s tangible and intangible cultural heritage.

AZERTAC